Meet The Designer Behind Dynamic

What are the key things you think about when it comes to designing for performance?

Designing for performance requires a blend of technical and strategic thinking to ensure that the design functions efficiently while also providing a smooth user experience.

When designing outdoor technical apparel for performance, there are several factors to consider, as it’s essential to optimize both the functionality and durability of the product for the user. Here are the key considerations:

• Purpose/Use of the Gear (Sport activity specificity, environment of the sport activity, target audience for the product).
• Fabric Selection & Necessary Performance (Waterproofing & breathability rate, robustness of the fabric, weight and hand feel, price).
• Fit & Comfort (Proper fit, choosing the right fabric for the selected block fit, designing with a layering system approach in mind).
• Testing & Feedback (Real-world testing: ensuring the designs are tested by experts in the field).
• Style & Aesthetics: While performance is the primary focus, style should not be neglected.

As an Italian designer, this factor is fundamental. In Italy, attention to aesthetics and details is in our DNA. Outdoor technical apparel has evolved to become more fashionable, with functional designs that also look good in urban settings. Consider subtle design features, color schemes, and details that are functional but also visually appealing—especially for consumers who want to wear outdoor gear both on the boat and around the marina.

By carefully integrating these factors, outdoor technical apparel can excel in providing both the comfort and high performance that adventurers require, while also ensuring durability and a great user experience in extreme conditions.

Who or what influences your design work the most? Are there any sports, or other industries you look to for inspiration?

When it comes to designing technical apparel, there are a variety of influences and sources of inspiration that shape my work. These influences span across sports, industries, and technological advancements.

·       Sport and Outdoor Activities: I look at all types of sports gear to keep myself inspired during my creative process. I try to identify which sports have the most advanced and innovative clothing technologies and aesthetics, applying this knowledge to the world of sailing. My passions are skiing, mountain biking, and trail running; I believe these sports have a significant influence on my design approach.

·       Fashion & Functional Apparel: Outdoor brands have long been pushing the boundaries of both performance and style. They often combine cutting-edge fabrics and technologies with sleek, innovative designs that cater to the technical needs of athletes while still being fashionable and marketable to the general public.

·       Product Design: My university journey was in Industrial Design, which had a significant impact on my design approach. Industrial design’s focus on ergonomics, usability, and functionality can often translate well to apparel design.

Can you explain the significance of using 100% recycled polyamide and the PFOA-free membrane and PFC-free coatings in the Dynamic range? 

The sustainable materials and technologies used in the Dynamic range reflect a thoughtful approach to reducing the environmental impact of sailing gear while maintaining the high standards necessary for performance on the water.

The use of recycled polyamide and the avoidance of harmful chemicals like PFOA and PFCs align with the growing consumer demand for environmentally responsible products.

The absence of PFOA and PFCs in the membrane and coatings ensures that the wearer is not exposed to potentially harmful chemicals, contributing to better health and safety standards.

Despite their eco-friendly nature, the materials and technologies used still maintain high performance in terms of durability, water resistance, and comfort, proving that sustainable choices do not have to compromise on quality.

Sustainability is a big focus in this range, with fabrics made from 100% recycled polyamide with PFOA-free membrane and PFC-free coatings. How important was it for you to create eco-friendly gear, and how did you ensure it didn't compromise performance?

In designing the Dynamic range, it was crucial to ensure that sustainability didn't come at the expense of performance, especially in a demanding environment like sailing.

The goal was to create a sailing kit that sailors could rely on without feeling guilty about its environmental impact. The solution wasn’t simple, but after a lot of testing and research, I was able to find eco-friendly alternatives that didn’t sacrifice performance. The result is a sailing Kit that offers exceptional waterproofing, breathability, and durability, all while using sustainable, non-toxic materials that help reduce harm to the planet.

One of the primary challenges was finding a way to maintain the same level of performance—specifically in waterproofing and breathability—without relying on harmful chemicals like PFOA, which are often used in membranes, and PFCs used in Durable Water Repellent (DWR) coatings.

To address this, I sourced a high-performance polyurethane (PU) membrane that is PFOA-free, ensuring the jacket would remain waterproof and breathable while being safer for both the wearer and the environment. Extensive testing was crucial to guarantee the new membrane met the rigorous demands of performance.

One of the most challenging part of the fabric development was in Maintaining Performance of DWR Coatings removing from the solution the danger Perfluorochemicals.

Initially, the DWR C0 coating provided good water repellency, but we realized it needed a boost to meet the high standards set for this range. After a lot of research and testing, we found a way to enhance the water-repellent chemicals, creating a version of DWR C0 that performed similarly to DWR C6, which is known for its exceptional water resistance.

This innovation, which we called "Double DWR", essentially doubled the performance of the standard C0 DWR. The result was a water-repellent coating that provided better protection against rain, spray, and saltwater while remaining PFC-free. This was a breakthrough in creating eco-friendly gear that didn't compromise on performance, making it a standout feature of the Dynamic range.

Can you tell us more about the collaboration with professional sailors during the development process? How did their feedback shape the design and functionality of the gear?

The collaboration with professional sailors was crucial in developing a top-level sailing kit, and their feedback played a central role in shaping the functionality of the gear. 

Their real-world experience, especially in demanding conditions, provided invaluable insights that helped refine the gear to meet the highest standards for performance, comfort, and durability.

The main design task was to transform Feedback into Design…absorb the sailors' needs and translate them into a design that not only met those needs but also embodied a minimalistic, stealthy, and long-lasting aesthetic. This is where I had to balance performance features with a sleek, functional look that professional sailors would be proud to wear.

The gear needed to be lightweight, flexible, durable and stylish without unnecessary embellishments. Every seam, pocket, and zipper placement was carefully considered to ensure it added to the performance without adding bulk.

How did you go about testing the Dynamic range? What kind of feedback from sailors helped refine the design and ensure it meets the challenges of both inshore and offshore racing?

Testing the Dynamic range was a critical part of ensuring that the gear would meet the rigorous demands of both inshore and offshore racing. The process involved extensive real-world trials with professional sailors, focusing on key elements such as fit, performance, and features of the kit in a variety of conditions. The feedback provided during these tests helped refine the design to create a kit that truly excels in the high-pressure environment of competitive sailing. 

For example, on the salopettes, every element—from the athletic fit to the knee cushions, articulated knees, and adjustable shoulder straps—was shaped by the sailors' real-world experiences, ensuring that the final product was not only high-performing but also comfortable and durable.

How did the development and testing process over the 12 months ensure the gear could perform under the toughest conditions? Were there any surprising outcomes or innovations during this phase?

Throughout the 12-month period, we engaged in continuous testing with professional sailors. Their real-world feedback provided invaluable insights into how the gear functioned under actual sailing conditions. Sailors tested the gear in both high-intensity races and extended offshore trips, providing crucial data on comfort, fit, flexibility, and durability.

In addition to real-world testing, we partnered with specialized testing companies to simulate in laboratory, extreme conditions and prolonged use. These companies provided essential data on the long-term durability of the fabrics and the performance of each element of the kit, even under the most challenging circumstances.

 One of the most surprising and significant innovations during the development phase was the discovery of how to improve the performance of DWR C0 (Durable Water Repellent, PFC-free). 

Initially, the DWR C0 coating provided good water repellence, but we realized it needed a boost to meet the high standards set for this range. After a lot of research and testing, we found a way to enhance the water-repellent chemicals, creating a version of DWR C0 that performed similarly to DWR C6, which is known for its exceptional water resistance.

This innovation, which we called "Double DWR", essentially doubled the performance of the standard C0 DWR. The result was a water-repellent coating that provided better protection against rain, spray, and saltwater while remaining PFC-free. This was a breakthrough in creating eco-friendly gear that didn't compromise on performance, making it a standout feature of the Dynamic range.

The process was long, complex, and often involved overcoming numerous technical challenges. Throughout this journey, the contributions of Kasia Staniszewska, the HL Technical Product Developer, were instrumental in making the project a success.

Without her technical knowledge and professional skills, the project would not have achieved the level of excellence that it did.

What excites you most about the future of technical sailing apparel, and how do you see the Dynamic range setting new benchmarks in the industry? 

What excites me about the future of technical sailing apparel is the opportunity to blend performance, sustainability, and modern design. Sailing gear has traditionally prioritized function, but there’s potential to create stylish, high-performance gear that aligns with today’s sailor’s expectations.

Like skiing and cycling, sailing apparel can embrace sleek, functional, and fashion-forward designs. Technological advancements are driving progress in materials, coatings, and fabrics, with a growing focus on sustainability. PFC-free alternatives and recycled materials now match or exceed the performance of traditional materials, reducing environmental impact without compromising durability.

The Dynamic range represents a significant milestone in this evolution, combining cutting-edge materials, design, and sustainability. It sets a new standard for high-performance sailing gear that excels in comfort, durability, and eco-friendliness. I believe this approach will become the industry norm, with more sailors seeking gear that balances performance with environmental responsibility. The Dynamic range is leading the way, and I'm excited to see how it shapes the future of sailing apparel.